Gelato Pattern

Here’s the pattern for the tank I posted a few weeks ago.

The top is designed to hit well below the waist – I hate when I raise my arms and my “muffin top” pops out. I also tend to sweat and hate getting pit stains, so it’s cut low under the arms.

This is my first attempt at writing a pattern with sizes. I did my best but, even so, I am 98% certain there are going to be errors. I’ll apologize for those up front and ask that you please let me know if you find any so I can correct them for future users!

SUPPLIES
Knit One, Crochet Too Italian Ice [76 yd per 50g]
MC, Color: 520, Spring, 4 (5, 6) skeins
CC1, Color: 212, Petal Pink, 1 (2, 2) skein
CC2, Color: 258, Carnation, 1 (2, 2) skein

Size 7 dpns (Some of the work done on dpns can be done on straight needles, but I prefer dpns because their smaller length makes maneuvering easier.)
Size 9 24-inch circular needle
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Holders or Safety Pins
Stitch Marker

SIZE
Small fits bust size 34
Medium fits bust size 38
Large fits bust size 42

GAUGE
18 sts/ 27 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needles

BODY
With CC1, cast 128 (146, 164) stitches onto circular needles. Join to begin knitting in the round and place marker.
Work 6 rows in garter stitch.
Using MC, continue in st st until work measures 6 (6, 6 ½,) inches from CO edge.


WAIST SHAPING
Decrease Round: Decrease 4 stitches, evenly spaced through work.
Work 3 rounds in st st.
Repeat Decrease Round.
Work 3 rounds in st st.
Repeat Decrease Round. 116 (134, 152) sts remain and work measures about 7¼ (7 ¼, 7 ¾) inches.
Work 10 (12, 12) rounds in st st.
Repeat Decrease Round. 112 (130, 148) sts remain.
Work 12 (14, 14) rounds in st st.

Increase Round: Increase 4 stitches evenly spaced through work.
Work 3 rows in st st.
Repeat Increase Round. 120 (138, 156) sts on needles.
Work in st st until work measures 14½ (15 ¼, 15 ¾)

Using CC2. Work 6 rows in garter stitch.
Cup Set Up Row Small: K 3, BO 12, K 5, BO 20, K 5, BO 12, K 31, BO 4, K 28
Break yarn.

Cup Set Up Row Medium: K 3, BO 14, K 5, BO 22, K 5, BO 14, K 37, BO 4, K 34
Break yarn.

Cup Set Up Row Large: K 3, BO 15, K 5, BO 22, K 5, BO 15, K 45, BO 4, K 42
Break yarn.

LEFT BREAST CUP
Slip last 28 (34, 42) sts that were knit in cup set up row onto size 7 needle. First stitch to be knit should be closest to armhole. Slip all other sts onto stitch holders.

Using CC1
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl

Size Medium Only: Row 3, knit; Row 4, Purl

Size Large Only: Row 3, knit; Row 4, Purl; Row 5, knit; Row 6, Purl

Short Row Shaping: Knit to last 3 sts of row. Wrap next stitch. Turn work and purl to last 3 sts of row. Wrap next stitch, turn, knit back to last 4 sts of row. Wrap next stitch. Turn, purl to last 4 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, knit back to last 5 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, purl back to last 5 sts.

Size Medium Only: Wrap next stitch, turn, knit back to last 6 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, purl back to last 6 sts.

Size Large Only: Wrap next stitch, turn, knit back to last 6 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, purl back to last 6 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, knit back to last 7 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, purl back to last 7 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, knit back to last 8 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, purl back to last 8 sts.

All Sizes: Wrap next stitch, turn, knit to end of row, picking up wraps with regular sts and knitting as one stitch. Turn, purl to the end of row, picking up wraps with regular sts and purling as one stitch.

Continue in st st for 10 (12, 14) rows.
Decrease Rows: Row 1: Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: SKPO, K to end of row
Row 4: Purl
Repeat Rows 1 through 4, 2 (2, 6) more times. 22 (28, 28) sts remain

Row 13(In size Large, this is Row 29): Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 14 (In size Large, this is Row 30): Purl
Row 15 (In size Large, this is Row 31): SKPO, K to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 16 (In size Large, this is Row 32): PurlRepeat rows 13 through 16 until 1 st remains. Place on stitch holder. Break yarn
.
Trim and Strap
Outside Trim: Place the first 3 sts that were knit in cup set up row onto size 7 needle so that first stitch to be knit is furthest from cup.

Using CC2, SKPO, K, pu 1 stitch on edge of cup. Turn work. Knit all 3 stitches on needle. Repeat until the trim reaches top of the cup. Place remaining 3 sts onto stitch holder with single stitch left from knitting cup. Break yarn.

Neckline Trim: Beginning where cup attaches to body and using CC2, pick up 3 sts along the BO part of the Cup Set Up Row.

Turn work. Knit all 3 stitches on needle. Turn Work. Pick up 1 stitch along edge of cup. K 1 stitch, K2tog. Repeat until the trim reaches top of the cup. Transfer 4 active sts from top of cup and outside trim from stitch holder onto needle with live sts from neckline trim.

Strap:

Row 1:K, K, SKPO, SKPO, K. 5 sts remain.
Work in garter stitch until strap is 10 (11, 12) inches long long. Place first 5 live sts from the cup set up row onto a dpn. Use 3 needle bind off to attach strap to back of top. Break yarn.

RIGHT BREAST CUP
Slip next to last 28 (34, 42) sts that were knit in set up row onto size 7 needle. First stitch to be knit will be closest to neckline.

Using CC1
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl

Size Medium Only: Row 3, knit; Row 4, Purl

Size Large Only: Row 3, knit; Row 4, Purl; Row 5, knit; Row 6, Purl

Short Row Shaping: Knit to last 3 sts of row. Wrap next stitch. Turn work and purl to last 3 sts of row. Wrap next stitch, turn, knit back to last 4 sts of row. Wrap next stitch. Turn, purl to last 4 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, knit back to last 5 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, purl back to last 5 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, knit to end of row, picking up wraps with regular sts and knitting as one stitch. Turn, purl to the end of row, picking up wraps with regular sts and purling as one stitch.

Size Medium Only: Wrap next stitch, turn, knit back to last 6 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, purl back to last 6 sts.

Size Large Only: Wrap next stitch, turn, knit back to last 6 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, purl back to last 6 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, knit back to last 7 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, purl back to last 7 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, knit back to last 8 sts. Wrap next stitch, turn, purl back to last 8 sts.

All Sizes: Wrap next stitch, turn, knit to end of row, picking up wraps with regular sts and knitting as one stitch. Turn, purl to the end of row, picking up wraps with regular sts and purling as one stitch.

Continue in st st for 10 (12, 14) rows.

Decrease Rows:
Row 1: SKPO, K to end of round
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 4: Purl
Repeat Rows 1 through 4, 2 (2, 6) more times. 22 (28, 28) sts remain

Row 13 (In size Large, this is Row 29): SKPO, K to end of round
Row 14 (In size Large, this is Row 30): Purl
Row 15 (In size Large, this is Row 31): SKPO, K to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 16 (In size Large, this is Row 32): Purl
Repeat rows 13 through 16 until 1 st remains. Place on stitch holder. Break yarn.

Trim and Strap
Outside Trim: Place the 3 live sts on the cup set up row that are closest to the cup onto size 7 needle so that first stitch knit is furthest from cup.

Using CC2, knit all 3 stitches on needle. Turn work. Pick up 1 stitch on edge of cup, K one stitch, K2tog. Turn work. Repeat until the trim reaches top of the cup.

Place 3 stitches from outside trim onto stitch holder with single stitch left from knitting cup. Break yarn.

Neckline Trim: Beginning where cup attaches to body and using CC2, pick up 3 sts along the BO part of the Cup Set Up Row.

Turn work. Knit all 3 stitches on needle. Turn Work. Pick up 1 stitch along edge of cup. K 1 stitch, SKPO. Repeat until the trim reaches top of the cup. Transfer 4 active sts from top of cup and outside trim from stitch holder onto needle with live sts from neckline trim.

Strap:
Row 1: K, K, SKPO, SKPO, K. 5 sts remain.
Work in garter stitch until strap is 10 (11, 12) icnhes long. Place last 5 live sts from the cup set up row onto a dpn. Use 3 needle bind off to attach strap to back of top. Break yarn.

FINSIHING
Weave in all ends.

Enjoy!

NOTE: This pattern is for personal use only. This pattern, or works made using this pattern, may not be sold.

A New Home for Penatpus

May 29, 2015
The book my husband created this character for has finally been published.  Check it out here! 

Since MagKnits has gone offline, I have decided to reprint my Pentapus pattern here. Enjoy!

My husband created Pentapus for a children’s comic he has been working on. I thought this cute little guy would make a great toy, so I challenged myself to find a way to knit him even though I was still fairly new to knitting.

Each leg of the toy is knit from the bottom up. The stockiness of the legs, combined with the way they are joined together, enables the toy to stand on its own. The recommended yarn results in a super soft toy whose stitches are evident, but I have also used “furry” yarns to create cuddly Pentapi whose stitches are not apparent.

The toy is worked in the round to minimize finishing. Instead of being knitted as a separate, detachable “accessory,” the hat is attached directly to the body and is used to close off the toy. These features make this adorable, cuddly critter a quick knit that can be whipped up in a single afternoon. The minimal yarn requirements also mean this endearing fellow is a great stash reducer.

Materials neededCrystal Palace Merino Frappe [80% Merino Wool, 20%Polyamide; 140yd/128m per 50g skein]
[MC] #065 Cinnamon Toast; 1 skein[CC] # 020B New Sage; 1 skein

Note: Each skein of Crystal Palace Merino Frappe will make either 3 Pentapus bodies and 2 hats OR 2 Pentapus bodies and 3 hats, so 2 skeins will make 5 complete Pentapi.

2 set(s) US #7/4.5 mm double-point needles
Tapestry needle
5 Stitch holders or safety pins
Polyester fiberfill for stuffing
Yarn substitutes
GGH Bel Air [90% Merino Wool, 10%Polyamide; 142yd/80m per 50g skein]
GGH Esprit [100%Polyamide; 87yd/80m per 50g skein]

SizesOne size fits children of all ages. : )

Gauge
20 sts/24 rows = 10cm (4 inches) in stockinette stitch

Special Stitch Instructions: Duplicate Stitch Embroidery
Thread a tapestry needle with desired embroidery thread. Bring the tip of the needle from the WS of work to the RS at the base of the first stitch to be worked. “Trace” this stitch by bringing the needle through both loops of the stitch above it and reinserting it at the base of the stitch being traced.

Legs – Make 5
Using MC, cast 6 sts onto a DPN using long tail cast on. Distribute over 3 needles so that once you are working in the round, you have 2 sts on each needle. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.
Round 1: Knit, knitting in tail from cast on.
Round 2: Kfb every stitch. You will now have a total of 12 sts, 4 on each needle.
Cont in St st until work measures 2.75 inches. This will create a tube about the length of your index finger and it should fit your finger like the finger of a glove.
Place the next 8 sts on a safety pin or stitch holder. Leave the last 4 sts on the DPN. This DPN will become a holder for all subsequent legs. Break yarn, leaving a 3 inch tail.
As you finish each subsequent leg, transfer the next 8 sts to a safety pin or stitch holder. Place the last 4 sts on the same DPN that is holding the last 4 sts of each previous leg. Break yarn, leaving a 3 inch tail. Be sure that the open tops of each leg are all on the same side of the DPN.

Joining Inner Portion of Legs
Take the DPN that holds all 5 legs in your left hand. The open tops of the legs should face away from you. Using MC, attach the legs to each other as follows: k3tog, k3tog, k3tog, k2tog, k3tog, k3tog, k3tog. 7 sts rem.

Distribute these 7 sts over 3 DPNs Join to work in the round being careful not to twist. Work as follows: k2tog, k2tog, k3tog. 3 sts rem.

Place the 3 rem sts on a single DPN. K3tog. Break yarn. Pass end of yarn through remaining stitch and pull loop closed.

Joining Outer Portion of Legs and Forming the Body
Distribute the 40 sts that have been on stitch holders or safety pins over 3 DPNs.
Round 1: Using MC, knit each stitch, except where one leg ends and another begins. In these 5 places, k2tog with one stitch coming from each leg. 35 sts rem. Legs are now joined for working in the round to form the body.

Cont in St st until work measures 2 .25 inches from where legs were joined together. Break yarn, leaving a 4 inch tail. When attaching the hat to the body, knit this tail in. These few sts of MC will serve as a guide for embroidering the band of the hat.

With work still on the needles, flip work over so the bottom is facing up. Using the tails left from making each individual leg and a tapestry needle, stitch closed the gaps that resulted when legs were joined. When each gap has been closed, draw the end of the yarn inside the toy and knot off. There is no need to weave in ends as toy will be stuffed and ends hidden inside.

With CC, embroider the face as desired. The top of the eyes should be at least 4 stitches from the needle so they will not be covered by the brim of the hat.

Making and Attaching the Hat
Using CC, cast on 68 sts onto second set of DPNs. Join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Round 1: K, p entire round.
Round 2: [k, p, k2tog, p, k, p2tog] to last 4 sts. K, p, k2tog. 51 sts rem.
Round 3: [k, p2tog] to last 3 sts. K, p, k. 35 sts rem.

Place the DPNs holding the brim of the hat on top of the DPNs holding the body of the Pentapus, as if putting a hat on the toy’s head. Align the DPNs so that the next stitch to be worked on the body is next to the next stitch to be worked on the hat. Insert a DPN through next stitch to be worked on the body and next stitch to be worked on the hat. Knit these 2 stitches together using CC and the tail of MC attached to the body. Continue in this manner until hat has been joined to the body.

With CC, work in St st until hat measures 1 .25 inches from the point it was joined to the body.

Insert a DPN through the next stitch on the needle and through the purl of the stitch that is 2 sts below this stitch. Knit together the stitch on the needle and the purl of the stitch 2 sts. (You may need to use the tip of a tapestry needle to lift the purl over the working yarn when knitting it together with the stitch on the needle.) Continue in this manner for one full row. This creates a ridge at the top of the hat and changes the direction of the work so that the top of the hat lies flat.

Leave work on the needles – you will continue knitting to close the hat once you have embroidered the band onto the hat and stuffed the toy.

Use duplicate stitch embroidery to make the band of the hat. Knitting in the tail of the body when joining the hat to the body results in a good road map for embroidering the first few sts of the band.

Thread a tapestry needle with a double length of MC. Bring the tip of the needle from inside the toy to outside the toy, at the base of the first stitch joining the hat to the body. “Trace” this stitch by bringing the needle through both loops of the stitch above it and reinserting it at the base of the stitch being traced. Repeat on the adjacent stitch in the row, continuing until you have made a band that fully encircles the hat. Knot off ends.

Stuff toy with fiber fill. Be sure to stuff legs firmly so toy will stand on its own.

Closing the Hat
Round 1: Knit
Round 2: [K, k2tog] to last 2 sts. K, k. 24 sts rem.
Round 3: Knit
Round 4: K2tog entire round. 12 sts rem.
Round 5: Knit
Round 6: K3tog entire round. 4 sts rem.
Transfer all 4 sts to a single DPN. K4tog.

Break yarn and thread tail through loop of single remaining stitch. Pull tight. Thread a tapestry needle with tail and weave through a few stitches in top of the hat. Push needle through center of hat, down into body and out the bottom of toy. Knot off. Trim excess yarn.

Pentapus Pattern

My pattern for Magknits is FINALLY up! You can check it out here.

Before and After

My friend Geraldine started a scarf and then abandoned it because she had run out of yarn before the scarf reached the desired length. When she got tired of this unfinished piece taking up space, she handed it off to me to see if I could do anything with it.

The scarf was curling in on itself because she had worked it in stockinette stitch with no edge stitches. The yarn was very bulky and she had cast on 23 stitches, resulting in a VERY wide scarf. After looking at it, I realized the only option was to frog it and start from scratch.

Geraldine is a fashion designer, so I wanted to make her a scarf with a little pizzazz. I toyed with a few ideas, including mixing the bulky yarn with a lighter weight one to create contrasting textures.

Ultimately, I decided just to use the existing yarn. I cast on 120 stiches and knit the scarf lengthwise, in the round, in seed stitch. After reaching the desired width, I cast off all but 10 stitches and unwound those 10 columns. The resulting yarn was cut at the center point, creating the fringe.

Even though I cast on and off loosely, the edges of the scarf are a tad stiffer than I would have liked, but they give the scarf a bit of structure and Geraldine seemed to like it!

Pattern for Mah Jongg Bag

As promised, here is the pattern for the bag I made for the Mah Jongg Mavens for Christmas. It's a quick knit, so you still have time to make one as a last minute present.

SUPPLIES
Cascade 220 [220 yd per 100g]; Color: 8400, Charcoal Grey, 1 skein

Lamb’s Pride Worsted [190 yd per 113g]; Color: M-83, Raspberry, 1 skein

This is enough wool to make two bags, one of each color.

Size 10½ (6.5mm) DPNs

Size 10½ (6.5mm) 16-inch circular needle
4 Stitch Markers

Tapestry Needle

Safety Pins

BAG BOTTOM
With MC, cast 35 stitches onto circular needles. DO NOT join for knitting in the round. Knit 60 rows in garter stitch.

Fold the cast on edge under the work, lining up the cast on edge with the last knitted row before the one on the needle. Safety pin it to hold in place. (See picture.)

Pick up and knit 14 stitches along the left edge of the work. Be sure to go through both layers of the work – you are joining them to form a pocket that will later hold a piece of cardboard. Pick up and knit 35 stitches along the folded edge. Pick up and knit 14 stitches along remaining side, again being sure to go through both layers of the work. [98 stitches total] The work should have now formed a pocket that is open on one side.

BAG SIDES
Place marker and join to begin working in the round. Knit 34 stitches and place marker. (Including stitch that joined round, you should have 35 stitches between the markers.) Knit 14 stitches and place marker. Knit 35 stitches and place marker.

Knit 36 rows in stockinette stitch, decreasing before and after each marker on every eighth row. [66 stitches remain] It will greatly help with the placement of the handles if you mark each pair of decreases with a safety pin.
Removing markers as they are encountered, knit 27 stitches and BO all remaining stitches.

BAG FLAP AND CLOSURE
Using the 27 stitches on the needles, work 13 rows in seed stitch. Attach CC and work 1 row in garter stitch. Continuing in seed stitch, bind off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 2 stitches at the beginning of the following 2 rows. [21 stitches remain]

Staying in pattern, bind off 7 stitches, work 3 stitches, bind off 1 stitch, work 3 stitches, bind off 7 stitches. Break yarn.

Slip last 3 stitches knit onto DPN. Work 5 inches of icord. Using 3 needle bind off, attach the end of the icord to the 3 stitches remaining on the circular needle. Be sure bound off stitches face the interior of the bag.

Using MC cast 3 stitches onto a DPN. Knit 15 inches of icord. Bind off and set aside.

HANDLES
With the front of the bag facing you, use a DPN to pick up 3 stitches in the lower left hand corner of the bag. Using these stitches as the beginning of an icord, knit an attached icord that goes from the bottom of the bag to the top of the bag. Use the safety pins that mark the decreases that shaped the bag’s sides as a guide for placing the icord, removing the safety pins as you encounter them. Once you have attached the icord to the top of the bag, knit 3 more rows of icord. Slip stitches to a safety pin and break yarn.

With the side of the bag facing you -- so that the icord you just knit is to your right -- again use a DPN to pick up 3 stitches at the lower left hand corner of the bag and knit an icord to the top corner of the bag. Once you have attached the icord to the top of the bag, knit 3 more rows of icord. Slip the 3 stitches that are on the safety pin onto the DPN. Knit 20 inches in garter stitch.

Slip 3 stitches from the DPN onto a safety pin. With the stitches that remain on the DPN, knit 3 rows of icord. Attach the icord to the opposite side of the bag, taking care that the handle is not twisted. Apply the icord from the top corner of the bag to the bottom corner of the bag, again using the safety pins that mark the decreases as a guide for placement.

Bind off the icord at the bottom of the bag in this manner: Knit 1 stitch from the DPN. Pick up and knit one stitch from the corner of the bag. Slip first stitch over picked up stitch. Knit one stitch from the DPN. Slip picked up stitch over stitch knit from DPN. Pick up and knit one stitch from the corner of the bag. Slip stitch knit from DPN over stitch picked up from corner of the bag. Knit last stitch from DPN. Slip picked up stitch over stitch knit from DPN. Break yarn and draw through loop to close.

Slip the remaining 3 stitches off the safety pin. Knit 3 rows in icord. Attach to bag, apply icord and bind off in the same manner as for previous applied icord.

FINSIHING
Weave in all ends. Felt the bag and the 15 inch icord.
Push and pull on the bag while it is still damp from felting to get it to the desired shape. Stuff with plastic bags to maintain that shape and hang by the handle to dry.

Tie the 15 inch icord into a Chinese button knot. There are many websites that show how to do this. This is one I like.

Remove plastic bags when purse is thoroughly dry. Attach button knot in the desired location. Cut a piece of sturdy cardboard to the size of the bottom of your bag and slip into the pocket at the bottom of the bag.

Enjoy!

LEGAL NOTE: This pattern is for personal use only. This pattern, or works made using this pattern, may not be sold. Ms. Nidoog retains the copyright for all patterns posted on this blog.

And so it begins...

I just had my first knitting pattern accepted by MagKnits, an online magazine.
Woo-hoo!

The editor suggests that once a pattern has been accepted, the designer should go tell the world, perhaps post an annoucement on her blog.

Uh, what blog?